Any Breed Will Do - What Is A Breed?

What is a breed?

An actual 'breed' of dog doesn't just happen, it is carefully developed over at least seven generations to fix the desired characteristics. Especially when breeding purebred dogs, the puppies must be able to be identified as a member of the breed when compared to the standard and to other adults. In other words, each litter of puppies should resemble its parents, grandparents, great grandparents and so on.

It is important to know and realize that just by sight you can't necessarily prove, even with registration papers, that a dog is purebred. There are shady breeders, and worse even careless ones, that can and will sell crossbreeds of similar looking dogs as purebred when they aren't. Some examples this can happen with are say crosses between Lhasa Apsos and Shih Tzus, any of the small terriers, Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes, and quite a few others. Believe it or not, there are genetic tests now available to identify more than three dozen breeds, so really serious buyers have something to fall back on if suspicious...unfortunately it's not cheap, the run about $80 for a test.

The advantage of owning a purebred dog is that the animal's appearance and character are pretty well set by generations of careful selection for particular traits. Puppy buyers can then more easily pick and choose the dog that will fit into their lifestyle and circumstances - active families can opt for energetic dogs; families with children can choose gentle dogs; people who live in apartments can select quieter dogs that need less exercise, etc.

Any Breed Will Do - Oh Really?

So you've decided you want a dog - anything will do as long as it's warm, soft and fuzzy, right?

There are many things to take into consideration before getting a dog, and so far we've covered a good many topics concerning this - however, it pays in the long run to do thorough research before getting your pooch. That's why I'm going as in depth as I can think covering this before moving on to other topics.

Will any breed do? The answer to this question is simply - NO. Just because they look cute or seem to be fun is no justification for adding a new member into your household that could possible turn it upside down due to bad planning. Granted, situations can occur that a furry fuzzball can come into your life quite unexpectedly. You may not always be prepared - but being well informed will definitely help in what to expect and what to do.

In this next series of topics we are going to cover several items:

1. What is a breed?
2. Choosing a breed
3. Dog Source: private breeders
3. Finding a responsible breeder
4. How much should they really cost?
5. Dog Source: shelters
6. Dog Source: rescues for pure breeds
7. Dog Source: preowned by family/friends
8. Dog Source: just a stray
9. Dog Source: pet stores
10. Dog Source: the classifieds

Each of these topics will include as much information and also links with information as I can find - as I expand this blog and cover more topics I hope with your comments and input it can be the best it can be.

Top 7 - Pet Odors

EWWWW!!!! What IS that smell???? Do people know you have a dog even before they even see him?

Many times this is worse with houses that have carpet, then houses with hardwood flooring. There are some things you can do to keep the odor under control and to eliminate it before it can become a problem, and even if it IS a problem.

1. Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. You might want to use a black-light, which you can purchase at a home supply store. A black-light will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all of the lights in the room; use the black-light to identify soiled areas and lightly outline the areas with chalk.

2. Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors. There are many products you can use to help clean, but it's important to find a cleaner that is enzymatic and will break down the old urine that has carried itself deep into your carpet and furniture.

3. Rule out medical causes for the behavior by visiting your veterinarian

4. Figure out why your pet is urinating and/or defecating in inappropriate areas.

5. Re-train your pet by make the "accident zone" unattractive and/or unavailable to your pet and the appropriate "bathroom" area attractive. Then, show your pet the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement techniques.

To be successful, you will need to follow all of these steps. If you fail to completely clean the area, your re-training efforts will be useless. As long as your dog can smell where he's gone before, he'll continue to return to the "accident zone." Even if you can't smell traces of urine, your dog can.

I'm also going to include some instructions for cleaning these stains - this is a direct written excerpt from the Humane Society to help pet owners eliminate the problem as efficiently and thoroughly as possible.

Instructions from The Humane Society of the United States to Eliminate Pet Odors/Stains:

To Clean Washable Items

• Machine wash as usual, adding a one-pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. It's best to air dry these items if possible.

• If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner (available at pet supply stores) that breaks down pet-waste odors. Be sure to follow the directions carefully.
• If your pet urinates or defecates on the sheets or blankets on a bed, then cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth when you begin the re-training period. It's machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery

For "new" stains (those that are still wet):

• Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the easier it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. If possible, put newspaper under the soiled area as well. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.
• If possible, put the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel in the area where it belongs—your cat's litter box or your dog's designated outdoor "bathroom area." This will help remind your pet that eliminating isn't a "bad" behavior as long as it's done in the right place.
• Rinse the "accident zone" thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a wet vac.

For stains that have already set:

• To remove all traces of heavy stains in carpeting, consider renting an extractor or wet vac from a local hardware store. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Don't use any chemicals with these machines; they work much more effectively with plain water.
• Once the area is really clean, use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Be sure to read and follow the cleaner's directions for use, including testing the cleaner on a small, hidden portion of fabric first to be sure it doesn't stain.
• If the area still looks stained after it's completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
• Avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery. The heat will permanently set the stain and the odor by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers.
• Avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with strong odors such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pet's perspective, these don't effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor and may actually encourage your pet to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.
• If you've previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won't be effective until you've rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven't used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its "energy" on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.
• If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult. In some cases, you may need to take the drastic step of removing and replacing that portion of the carpet and padding.

To Clean Floors and Walls

If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard, or floor is discolored, the varnish or paint has reacted to the acid in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint. If you do so, make sure the new product is safe for pets. Employees at your local hardware or home improvement store can help you identify and match your needs with appropriate removers and replacements. Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers may respond favorably to enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully before using these products and test them in an invisible area.

Top 7 - Agression

Fido has decided he is the leader of the pack and not you...Fifi has started nipping and biting...what do you do???

We all love our dogs, there's no doubt about that, but sometimes love gets in the way of looking at our dogs' behavior honestly and objectively. When we fail to recognize a problem, or worse, refuse to believe there is a problem, we can actually make the problem worse.

People make excuses for their dogs for all kinds of reasons. Some people don't understand what normal canine behavior should be and don't recognize when their dog is behaving abnormally. Some do realize when things aren't right but are afraid to take steps to correct them because they're worried their dog might not love them as much as it did before. Others are secretly afraid of their dogs and believe, often rightly so, that their dog might bite them if they intervene. Some people love their dogs so much that they refuse to acknowledge that their dogs aren't perfect, much less mentally disturbed. A few go so far as to ignore the bad behavior to such an extent that the dog becomes a real danger to themselves and other people.

Most of us want our dogs to be be protective toward our families, but is behaving aggressively toward our guests the sort of protection we want? No, that's just being obnoxious! It indicates a dog that is either fearful and insecure or dominant and over-reactive. Neither is normal and both can be dangerous.

Can mistreatment by a previous owner cause behavior problems? Sure, but it doesn't mean the dog should be allowed to continue its bad behavior now that it's being treated properly. Blaming earlier abuse for a bad attitude is just an excuse for not teaching the dog how it's expected to act now.

Do dogs ever grow out of their behavior problems? Very seldom. As the dog gets bigger, so does the problem! Bad behavior that was considered cute or tolerable in a small puppy is usually intolerable or even dangerous in a fully grown dog.

A dog that bites or threatens to bite is not a safe dog, plain and simple. Whether the dog "means to" or not isn't the issue. The important thing in all these cases is: the dog is doing something it shouldn't and the behavior must be corrected. Unless the owner admits that there is a problem and gets help to solve it, things will only get worse and more people will get hurt.

Dogs that bite or threaten to bite are usually beyond the capabilities of the average group training class such as those commonly offered by kennel clubs and animal shelters. It's best to seek out the help of a professional trainer or behaviorist that can personally evaluate your dog and tailor a training program that meets your dog's individual needs. Most kennel clubs, training clubs, animal shelters, groomers and veterinarians can provide referrals to trainers experienced in behavior problems.

Top 7 - Barking or Whining

What a RACKET!!! Fido or Fifi, that's enough!!! How do you get Fido or Fifi to stop making noise??? The answer is...you DON'T.

Barking is actually a dog’s natural reaction to changes in his or her environment; he or she should be allowed to indulge themselves AS LONG AS they are being reasonable.

However, if your dog annoys you or the neighbors with his noise-making, there are some steps you can take to minimize the nuisance and pain in the behind. The solution could be as simple as a change of scenery for the dog or as complex as the developing and putting into action some type of behavior modification program.

Some dogs bark or whine at everything they see and hear, a bad habit that will cause major problems in an apartment complex or really tight fitted neighborhood. Some dogs will stop barking if they cannot hear or see the people they know are near. So, if Fido or Fifi is an in-the-house noisemaker, put her in the kitchen or laundry room with a crate or bed, away from windows, common walls, and hallways, and turn on a radio before leaving the house. And believe it or not, classical music stations usually work best - they have fewer disruptions by commercials with all kinds of noises that could trigger barking. Confine Fido or Fifi in the room with baby gates in the doorways, not by closing doors, so he or she does not "panic".

If your dog barks while you’re gone because he or she is outside and wants inside or if he or she is an outside dog and a habitual barker, a change of scene could work as well. You could bring them inside the house or build a run in the basement to keep them in an area without so many distractions to bark at. The radio, again, will help mask sounds and confinement to a small area may help him or her settle down.

If your outdoor dog has been banished from the house because he or she is destructive, you may find that they have outgrown their destructive stage. If not, or if you are afraid to find out, a crate or a basement kennel may be the answer.

Top 7 - Inappropriate Urination/Defecation

OH NO!!! What WAS that you just stepped in??? GROSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!

House training is a big item on the Top 7 Hate list - nobody likes dealing with a nasty, stinky mess. Appropriate house training begins the moment you bring Fido or Fifi home - here are some critical yet simple rules right off the bat to keep in mind and implement with your furry friend:

1. Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
2. Puppies have limited bladder control.
3. Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
4. All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
5. Dogs have to go potty when...
a. they wake up in the morning or after a nap
b. within 1/2 hour after eating
c. before they go to sleep

By adhering to these rules everyone should be happy, and life will be peaceful and content.

Breaking it down for adult dogs, simply modify the puppy schedule to train the unhouse trained adult dog that is having problems. Start from the beginning just like you would with a puppy, using a crate and putting them on a schedule. The good news is an older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods as long as you take them outside at the critical times - see a - c above. Until they are totally reliable, just take them out about every 3 to 4 hours in between the critical times.

Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really gotta go. Just like a puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.

HOWEVER...

There is something ELSE to keep in mind - your male puppy will begin to lift or 'hike' his leg roughly between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation of his sexual drive and his instinct to “mark” his territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, plus fighting and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house, particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!

Top 7 - Cost of Medical Care

Flat out - owning a dog costs money. A good and responsible owner will know this and I'm talking about above and beyond the cost of feeding and housing.

If you get a puppy, first and foremost if you get them from a reputable person, the puppy should have had it's initial first vaccinations out of a series of 4 - this should include a vet check and a complete series of worming. If not, you will have to be responsible for these things.

There is a lot you can do to help alleviate these costs - for example, you can take the puppy in for just the exam, and get wormer if necessary. If you know what you are doing you can purchase the vaccinations (both the distemper/parvo and bordetalla) and administer them yourself. This will save a LOT of money, but unfortunately most people aren't comfortable administering vaccinations so unless you know someone that is, be prepared for several initial vet visits from the start until all puppy shots are up to date and finished.

The initial timing and schedule for worming/vaccinations for a puppy are as scheduled:

2 weeks - 1st series of worming, with one a week for the next 7 weeks
6 weeks - 1st vet visit/1st D/P & Bordetella vaccination/fecal exam
9 weeks - 2nd vet visit/2nd D/P & Bordetella vaccination/follow up fecal if necessary
12 weeks - 3rd vet visit/3rd D/P vaccination
15 weeks - 4th vet visit/4th D/P & Rabies vaccination

Prices vary from vet to vet, but you can be sure that a full series such as the above will set you back roughly $200 - 300 - be prepared to pay these costs. As far as vaccinations go, you will be fine after this point to just get the yearly followups.

Next, it is imperative and important to spay or neuter your dog...sadly unwanted puppies are born everyday and we all need to do our part to help keep the pet population down. The average age of getting this done is 4 - 6 months of age for the puppy, before the first heat cycle for a female and before the males testicles totally descend. A pet can be spayed or neutered at anytime, but behaviourally speaking, most pets do better if they are spayed or neutered prior to reaching complete adulthood.

There are many community programs available to help with the cost of spaying and neutering - contact your local ASPCA - they will be more then happy to assist you in finding a low-cost local program if necessary. They would much rather help you do this then one day have to take in your dog and it's unwanted babies at a future date. Yes, it does cost to spay/neuter - but the cost is so much higher when you think of the future of the dogs brought into this world unwanted and unexpected.

Occasionally - accidents do happen. And Fifi or Fido may need that extra bit of care that can literally run into the thousands of dollars...what do you do? To this particular blog I'm going to give you a link to pet insurance called VPI Pet Insurance I have personally used and have had experience with - just like for people, there is also health insurance available for pets as well that most if not all vets accept. Be sure to check with your local veterinarian and read and go through all the insurance information to see which one fits your needs and your household best - but in a pinch I have seen first hand that these can LITERALLY be a lifesaver...dogs that were hurt and injured were able to receive care that the owner would not have been able to provide and afford otherwise and would have to have been euthanized.

Yes, the cost of medical care for dogs is definitely on the top 7 hate list - but it is manageable with careful thought and planning, especially if taken into consideration and prepared for before bringing a new dog home. Our little furry family members are worth it.

Top 7 - Pet Hair

Oh my goodness!!! What IS that stuff all over my house??? It's pet hair! OOOOHHH GROSS!!!

Pet hair all over your clothes, all over your home, everywhere actually, can be quite annoying. Is there anything you can do to prevent this from happening?

To put it very simply, all dogs have three types of hair: a soft downy undercoat that is especially abundant in northern breeds but also exists in breeds that were developed in cool or cold climates; stiffer and often longer guard hairs that form a protective layer to protect undercoat and skin from harsh weather and cold water; and whiskers, those specialized hairs that grow in clumps on the face.

All dog hair grows in cycles. When it reaches a certain length determined by the individual dog's genetic makeup, it stops growing, then dies. That's when shedding begins. Dogs that require regular 'hair cuts' or a full grooming such as poodles, their hair never stops growing. That is one reason why they are considered a nonshedding breed, or hypoallergenic breed. Another reason is because they produce a lot less 'pet dander' which are dead skin cells sloughed off by the shedding hair.

A dog may be slightly uncomfortable during shedding as the dead hairs and the dead skin cells can cause the skin to itch. Owners can help relieve that slight discomfort by brushing the coat which will also help keep down the amount of hair shed throughout the home.

Shedding appears to be connected to how the seasons run, but it is actually goes by how long the days run. Dogs that live outside usually shed heavily as days lengthen into spring, but those that live mostly indoors often seem to shed at least a bit all year long. Loss of the winter undercoat helps the dog stay cooler in warm, humid weather, a necessity for an animal whose only sweat glands are in the pads of his paws. Female dogs often drop their coats after a heat cycle or after whelping and most dogs will also shed after undergoing anesthesia.

It is important to research the different breeds and their coats, and decide which kind of breed of dog will work for you and your home and the coat your dog will have before you bring him or her home. Also check into what you are looking at as far as upkeep with grooming, not only to help them stay clean and happy and healthy, but also to keep you from getting frustrated and aggravated.

Also, a little known fact about dogs, but something to stop and think about and to take into serious consideration - no matter what color or type coat your dog may have, the condition of the dog's hair mirrors the general state of the dog's health. Thyroid problems, insufficient dietary fats, poor nutrition, hormone imbalances, seborrhea, ringworm, pore infections, hot spots, inhalant allergies, and external parasites can directly or indirectly affect hair health and growth.

Coat condition is, therefore, as important to monitor as appetite, behavior, and temperature when assessing your dog's well-being. A dull, dry, brittle, or greasy coat is a clue to the internal workings of every dog's system. Keep an eye on it - remember, they too, are important in the family and deserve to have the best of care.

Top 7 - Having to Board / Get a Pet Sitter When Traveling

So you want to go on vacation, or it's an emergency...what do you do with Fifi or Fido???

Many dog owners dread the thought of having to find a boarding kennel or pet sitter for their dog, for many reasons. As a former co-owner in a boarding/grooming shop, I have had first hand experience in knowing what to expect, and the pitfalls that can happen in a boarding kennel. Many owners are very particular about where and who takes care of their pet - and they should be, since they too, are members are the family. To make choosing a kennel less stressful and to give you more of an idea of what to look for and think about before choosing one, below are some suggestions for you to take into consideration whether looking for a kennel for vacation or in an emergency.

1. Is it clean? What is the first thing you smell when you walk into a boarding kennel? When you walk into a boarding kennel the first thing you should smell is CLEAN, not a 'dog' smell. If a kennel properly cleans and maintains it's kennels as it should, there should be no offensive odor of any kind for you to smell. Do not be afraid to ask how and with what cleaners kennels are cleaned with (I used a bleach/water with a mild detergent for a cleaning mix and cavicide for disinfection) and how often they are cleaned. A good kennel will keep kennels clean, cleaning them a minimum of twice daily for those that are occupied, and moving ALL kennels to get behind and under them at LEAST weekly to ensure proper cleanliness. Also inquire and make sure that all cleaning agents are properly stored and kept put up and away from pets, and that they do not have any way or opportunity to get to them to ingest them. This is critical - you'll see why in a bit.

2. Do they use linens/towels? Be sure to ask if clean linens/towels are available to make kennels more comfortable for visiting pets, and what they are washed with. All linens/towels should be washed in hot water and not just in a mild detergent, but also bleach as well to keep them clean and safe for the next visitor's use. Linens/towels should be changed a minimum of twice daily, when the kennels are cleaned. Inquire if a washing machine and dryer are available on the premises, this is a definite plus but be sure to inquire about the washing schedule (in other words, making sure linens/towels are changed at least twice daily). If there isn't a washing machine and dryer on the premises it would be safer to assume laundry probably isn't done often enough or as it should be and you might want to look somewhere else. Many good kennels will allow you to bring your own linens/towels to make your pet more comfortable. Make sure all items are labeled properly, and be sure what you send isn't something that you don't mind getting thoroughly cleaned and bleached.

3. What is the feeding schedule? Most kennels will feed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon - if your dog goes on a different schedule, be sure to notify the kennel. A good kennel will not complain but comply with your wishes. Many owners will bring their own food for their dog, make sure it is properly labeled, and be sure to bring enough to last for the length of time you will be gone. If you do not bring your own food and will be letting them feed the kennel 'special' be sure to inquire what dog food they feed to ensure it is nutritionally balanced and of good quality.

4. What bowls do they use for food and water? Plastic food and water bowls are a no-no in a kennel - make sure the bowls that are used are either stainless steel or heavy crock ware. These are much better and easier to keep sanitized and are safer for your pet. Inquire with what and how often they are cleaned. A water bowl should always be present, but should be removed and cleaned and and a new one placed and filled during both feeding times and checked often to make sure it never goes empty. Food bowls should be washed and cleaned twice daily and removed once food has been consumed. A mild dish detergent and bleach should be used to clean the dishes, and then after rinsing to be let to soak for about 10 minutes in water with bleach in it, then air dried. Inquire and make sure that an adequate amount of bowls are available so that when rotating/washing, Fido or Fifi won't have to wait until the bowls are clean. If bringing your own bowls, make sure it is properly labeled and expect it to be cleaned with the same thoroughness, but that a water bowl is present and supplied besides yours at all times to ensure Fido/Fifi has water available while waiting for their personal bowls to be cleaned and dried.

5. What is the potty/walking schedule and WHERE will they be going? Make SURE a proper sized outside enclosure is available for your pet to stretch his or her legs, and to go potty. Also inquire if they will be watched or if they are left alone in the outside enclosure, as they should be monitored at all times. Also, make sure they have a good area to take out those dogs that need to be walked, and that leashes are provided. You can provide your own leash - make sure they are properly labeled. Be sure you let them know if your dog will be ok to be taken to an outside enclosure to go potty and run free a bit or if they will need to be walked on a leash. Dogs should be walked/taken out a MINIMUM of twice a day - and if yours has a set schedule be sure to inform the kennel so that they can accommodate as necessary.

NOTE: From personal experience I have learned that it is BEST to have two people working and available for cleaning/feeding/walking. At a former kennel I worked for before owning my own, dogs were led into an outside 12x10x6 covered kennel with a concrete floor - the location was great, it was safely enclosed and big enough to stretch out in, and cleaned up of poop and rinsed off of urine before the next dog was let to go potty. They would go out once in the morning, at noon, and early evening. It seemed perfect, and dogs were taken out and the time used for them to 'take care of business' was used to clean their kennels, feed, etc. as needed. I have learned the hard way this should be a two person job, and someone should always be watching while the other is cleaning. On the day the OWNER (my boss) of the kennel had kennel duty, she left a spray bottle with a cleaning agent hanging at the very top of the kennel to be used to spray and then quickly rinse off the floor between dogs. We all always did this, it just made things easier and didn't think anything about it since it was so high up. On that particular day, a very feisty and inquisitive Dalmatian knocked the spray bottle down while she was inside cleaning and chewed it open, ingesting a good bit of the disinfectant. She spent a good deal of the rest of the morning/afternoon at the vet with a VERY sick dog (he'd gone into seizures and foaming at the mouth and having trouble breathing...it was horrifying), and had to call the owners and notify them about what had happened.

6. What other services do they offer? If your pet takes medication, make sure that the kennel will take responsibility of making sure your pet gets their proper dosage at the proper time. All medications should be properly labeled and stored in a safe place. A good kennel will have individual shelves/cubbies that can be labeled to put each visiting dogs personal items and supplies in. Also, many kennels offer additional grooming or bathing services - inquire which are available, and you may be able to get your dog a bath or a good grooming before picking them up and taking them home.

7. What is their registration process? If they just tell you to bring them on in - DON'T! Any kennel worth their weight in salt will request and require a vaccination record from the owner's veterinarian. They would make sure all vaccinations are current and up to date, and require at minimum a rabies vaccination, the distemper/parvo vaccination and the kennel cough vaccination before letting any dog through their door. Puppies younger then 16 weeks without a rabies vaccination and a full series of puppy vaccinations should not be boarded. If a kennel will allow it, then a certification letter from a vet stating they have had an adequate amount of 'puppy' shots, that they are healthy as of the vet visit and then ONLY at the owner's discretion knowing that their could be risks should it then be allowed. A very thorough information and contact sheet should be filled out and updated with each stay and kept on file with all of the owner's and the owner's veterinarian's pertinent information, as well as any and all other information that is needed to know such as any allergies, type of food eaten, medications taken, unique schedule or any other special needs. An index card or kennel card should be filled out at the time of drop off or prepared before hand with the dog's name, owner's name and emergency contact number and any special needs written on it and placed on the kennel door at the time of drop off to insure that the proper dog, it's identity and it's needs are immediately known.

8. How much does it cost? This is probably the most touchy subject that owner's are worried about, but the one that has the least to do with their pets health and safety. Prices vary from kennel to kennel, with daily rates and weekly rates. Inquire as to what the rates are, if they differ for different size dogs, and what all is included. Be prepared - boarding in a kennel can be very expensive, but it is worth knowing your pet is healthy, happy and safe if all of the above things I have covered are in good order.

Top 7 Things Dog Owners Hate

1. Having to Board / Get a Pet Sitter When Traveling
2. Pet Hair
3. Cost of Medical Care
4. Inappropriate Urination/Defecation
5. Barking or Whining
6. Aggression
7. Pet Odors

Whew - those seven things, when really thought about, seem like they would almost turn-off any new potential pet owner, don't they?

Actually, these things may be annoying, and they may be something ALL pet owners need to deal with at some time or another, but all in all they can be dealt with in a way that doesn't turn you or your home upside down and inside out.

This next series will address these, one by one, in more depth and detail (I've briefly covered some of these topics before) to help you deal with these things that ALL pet owner's hate to deal with. If you have any ideas or additional information or experiences you would like to share while covering these topics - please do! I look forward to hearing from you!

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...BEHAVIOUR AND ATTITUDE (BARKING)

What kind of behaviour and attitude are you looking for in your new potential furry member of your family??? Especially when it comes to barking? Didn't think about that, did you? This kind of falls under temperament, but I wanted to focus on it a bit more, because it's very important in and of itself in helping you make the decision as far as what you are looking for and wanting in a new puppy or dog.

Bet you didn't know it but...some dogs bark. A lot. Some dogs such as terriers and hounds use their voices to let others know about their progress in chasing prey animals. Then there are shelties and collies that will bark to tell the sheep to get back into the barn. Guard dogs will bark to alert their families to potential intruders.

In general, barking dogs do not endear their owners to their neighbors in apartments, condominiums, and neighborhoods. Too much barking can lead to noise laws or even pet limit laws. This is why owners of barking dogs, or dogs that like to bark must be extra vigilant in preventing their pets from becoming a neighborhood pain in the rear.

Many dogs will bark if they are bored or antsy, so owners should make sure they give their doggy friend enough time for training, walking, and play time, and should properly keep them confined if and when they are unable to keep them from disturbing the neighbors. (There are some special collars available to help cease and deter barking in dogs and some training methods that can help in some cases, but if potential owners take the noise factor into consideration, problems are more likely to be minimized.)

Barking is to dogs what talking is to us - can you imagine never being able to speak your piece? Didn't think so - wanting to completely eliminate all barking isn't really necessary, after all, they need time to say what they need to say too - but it is important to know and realize that certain breeds are more prone to having a more 'outspoken' barking 'behaviour' and may get an 'attitude' when you try to quieten them down then others.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...TEMPERAMENT

What kind of temperament are you looking for in a dog??? Honestly, typical breed and group temperaments can be described, but there is a really big variation within that description for unique individuality.

There are a gazillion words to describe the different temperaments of different breeds - the tendency to be tough, loyal, aloof, dominant, aggressive to other animals, challenging, yappy, independent, sweet and gentle, just to name a few. As far as being breed specific describing temperament, however, with proper training, encouragment and guidance the temperament of the dog YOU want will be how YOU want it to be.

Just know you will need to research the basic common and general known temperament that is common in the breed you are interested in, and then you will be able to organize and be prepared to maintain the training required to get the temperament YOU expect from the dog.

Yes, some dogs are born with more tendencies towards being more aggressive or more mellow then others - but how you teach, train and love them will make all the difference. Having a dog with the kind of temperament that you encourage and nurture will make for a happy and fullfilling relationship between the dog and your family.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...EASE OF TRAINING

How difficult is it to train a dog??? Some breeds are fairly easy to train, and some are quite difficult. For example, the breeds that were designed to work independently of man and those that were developed to guard livestock or kill things threatening livestock such as rodents and vermin require lots of persistence and firmness for training.

If you lack time and patience to deal with a dog that is difficult to train, then an older dog from a rescue service may fit your bill as well as a pup of a breed that is traditionally easier to train. Intelligence is not necessarily an indicator of trainability or being easy to train; smart dogs often have their own ideas and agenda and require firmness when training to get the desired action or reaction that owner is looking for.

There are seven different breed groups for dogs - Sporting, Hound, Working, Terrier, Toy, Non-Sporting and Herding. It is important to keep in mind that when you decide which dog or puppy you want to get to research which group it falls under and the proper requirements it will take to train him/her.

Right now we are covering the basics in decision making when it comes to getting your new dog and what to take into consideration, especially ease of training and what you should look for - later we will cover each of these breed groups more thoroughly and in depth.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...COAT TYPE

What kind of coat on your potential new dog will work best for both you and your home?? It is important to remember, keeping up with a dog's grooming and hygiene is extremely important. Below is a little more information on dog coats to help you decide which one you are willing to take responsibility for, whether it be low-maintenance or higher maintenance. There are many to take into consideration so be sure to choose the one that is right for you.

Long-coated and double-coated dogs shed, shed, and shed some more. They can leave tufts of hair to float about the house and land everywhere you can think of. Meticulous housekeepers and folks with little or no time for grooming will be happier with dogs that don't leave a part of themselves behind. It is important to remember that double-coated dogs may also have longer, stiffer guard hairs that can penetrate bare feet like splinters. Keeping up with this type of coat is time consuming and tedious, but well worth the finished product if it is kept up and maintained.

For the terrier/poodle breeds, regular brushing is needed to remove the dead hair from the wire-coated terriers, poodles, and poodle relatives/mixes, and professional grooming is necessary to maintain texture and color in these breeds. These breeds are generally better than heavily shedding breeds for owners with allergies, and are easier to keep and maintain.

Just a quick note and reminder - dogs with a tendency to oily outer coats can develop a doggy odor that can be unpleasant, dogs with heavy coats may suffer in southern climates, and dogs with short coats may shiver in the north. Be sure whether keeping them inside or out, their coat is appropriate for where you will be keeping them and where you live.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...NEED FOR EXERCISE

How energetic are YOU?? Actually, this has a lot to do with what dog you choose to get. If you are very active, enjoy walking/jogging a lot or outdoor activity then having a dog that enjoys the same is a good choice for you. Active families would be happier with a pet that can jog, hike, and play ball. If you are more of a homebody or sedate, you would most likely prefer a quieter animal.

Believe it or not, cute as they are, Basset Hounds, Dachshunds, and Corgis are not jogging companions, and Airedales, German Shepherds, and Border Collies are not typical couch potatoes. In retrospect, Poodles, Maltese, and Yorkies are content to just hop up and down in your lap for exercise and Great Danes are very low key and do well in small apartments and such because of their low requirement for exertion.

All dogs do need some exercise to stay healthy. Most adult dogs will not exercise themselves, so time for walks and other activities is important. A healthy exercise regimen for the particular breed of dog you decide is best for you will make for a healthier and happier pet, keeping obesity and some potential health problems at bay.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...POTENTIAL HEALTH PROBLEMS

Are certain dogs more inclined to health problems than others???

Although purebred dogs are known more for their health problems much more so then mixed breed dogs thanks to genetics, the truth is that all dogs have the same range of health problems.

Some of these problems are genetic, some result from exposure to disease or parasites, and some are the result of non-genetic birth defects or injuries. Genetic problems such as joint problems, hip and elbow dysplasia, loose kneecaps, eye problems, cancers, skin diseases, heart disease and more affect dogs of every size, breed and background. Some dogs will even have additional problems caused by short muzzles, long backs, or even from being too big or small.

Bottom line when you start searching for a dog - always ask questions about the parents, and even grandparents and so on if the information is available. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Inbreeding, unfortunately is a lot more common in purebred dogs so be sure to ask for a pedigree and look it over to avoid as many potential heath problems as possible. Some breeders of purebred dogs will inbreed trying to perfect a certain 'trait' to perfect the 'breed standard'...sadly this is for human selfishness instead of caring for the the well being of the dog.

With any dog you run the risk of potential health risks - just be sure you are aware of as many potential problems you may face beforehand in choosing the right dog or puppy for you. If you plan on adopting from a shelter, there may not be a lot you can find out as far as background, but you can be assured that they will have had a complete check up including full vaccinations and spay/neuter and if there are any potential health problems they will be made known and made available to potential new owners.

Just remember - being imperfect is something we are ALL good at canine and human alike - and it is not the dog or puppy's fault if it turns out to have health problems, whether genetic or not. Many dogs and puppy's are 'thrown away', cast aside or given up to shelters because health wise they turned out to be less then perfect. That is why it is so important to get as much information as possible before deciding what type and where you want to get a new dog from.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...SIZE

So, what size dog do you think you want???

Generally, a large dog is not really made for an apartment, for elderly owners, or for mild-mannered people. However, keep in mind there are some large, agile dogs that adapt well to apartment or condo living as long as they get a daily walk, and some are gentle enough that anyone with a firm voice and manner can easily handle them.

Medium size dogs may seem adaptable to any situation and lifestyle because they are in the median size range ~ however, this is one of the most incorrect perceptions ever made when deciding what type of dog to bring home.

Small dogs may be unsuitable for families with active children or elderly or relatives that are sick who could trip over a small, bouncy critter. Many people think small dogs are ideal because of their size, but do not stop to think about how active they really are.

As we get further into this blog and really break down the different breeds, etc., we will cover this topic more thoroughly and discuss the size vs. breed issue to really determine which dog is best for you and your household.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...

Here are some critical things to think about to help you in your decision of which dog you want to finally bring home...you need to make more then one decision however, before making your FINAL decision.

Decisions on size, potentional health problems, need for exercise, coat type, ease of training, temperament, behaviour and attitude that you make before seeing potential new pups or dogs will help you make a good decision in the dog that will eventually share your home.

The next few days I will be covering eight topics vital to making sure your home is ready for your new family member before you ever bring him or her home. Please feel free to comment or ask questions if you have any!

In The Beginning....WHERE??

Where do you live, and is it going to be puppy or dog friendly? It is so important to make sure that your home will be ready and prepared to accomodate a new puppy or dog...not just because of location but also because of the size and breed of the dog too.

Many folks living in their own homes with their own private yards generally are able to have any type of dog they want (although not necessarily the one they should have), where as there are places like apartments and such that there is a size limit or only specific types of breeds that are allowed.

Also many places will expect you to pay a pet deposit that is nonrefundable...be sure you are prepared for any costs that may be incurred if bringing a puppy or dog into a home that is rented or leased and not owned.

If you are planning on getting a highly energetic dog that requires a lot of exercise, it is difficult to keep them in an apartment rather then a home with a fenced in yard - lower maintenance dogs are best.

All in all, the final thing to keep in mind is the size and type of your home before deciding which kind of dog you want to be a new member of your family.

In The Beginning....HOW????

How do you expect your puppy or new dog to act in your home when it gets there? Many people don't realize that right along with housetraining, it is important to teach manners to puppies and dogs that are new to a household before they develop bad habits. This is crucial for all interaction and growth.

It is important to remember that each and every day will be a new learning experience, and whether or not manners and appropriate behaviors are learned is first and foremost the responsibility of every ADULT in the family. To say that it is counterproductive to have a child handle this responsibility is putting it nicely...it doesn't matter if a child has even pleaded and promised to love the new addition and has sworn absolute and utter devotion in showing it how to behave. The parents should be the ones to decide when the time is right to get a puppy or dog, knowing full well that they are ultimately responsible for the animal's well-being, it's training and it's positive joining with the family.

Mainly, it is wise to remember the first few weeks are the 'make it or break it' time...if allowance for schedule and time and patience isn't made to make sure proper training is given, many puppies or dogs end up getting kicked out into the yard, given away, or even dropped off at an animal shelter.

Believe it or not, young puppies even at the tender age of 8 weeks can learn to sit before getting a meal or a treat. They can learn to walk on leashes, have fun riding in cars, even to learn not to jump up on people when greeting them.

Remember that it will take gentle guidance, consideration of a puppy or new dog's fragile spirit, and most important, consistency.

Lastly, before getting a new puppy or dog, check into professional obedience training if you think you may need help in this area. The cost may seem high at first but in the long run it will pay off with the family having a dog that is truly a joy to be around, that has manners and won't chew on things it shouldn't, jump on people, beg for food or act like fire has been attached to his behind instead of a leash on his collar.

If you are pretty sure on HOW you want your dog to act once it comes home and you are prepared to make sure you do everything to encourage those manners and behaviors, then continue on to the next important topic in making sure your home is ready for your new family member...In The Beginning....WHERE???

In The Beginning....WHAT???

What method of house training are you going to use that will best suit you and your household? This is the second most important thing to consider before getting a dog or puppy, but usually the most overlooked. Too many times house training has turned into a battle instead of a positive experience, giving the dog a feel of a negative environment from the moment it comes home.

To give an example, this usually happens when a child is, from the beginning, expected to handle all the 'potty' work, or perhaps promises to faithfully take on this chore. Then reality sets in, and they can't or won't do it all on their own, and tensions start to rise, setting a negative environment for the new dog or puppy.

It is important to remember that puppies do not go to the bathroom inside because they are stupid or dumb or want to be bad. The do it because they are too young to have any type of control and haven't been taught how to have control. Overall, a little preparation can actually go a long way to avoid this tension and make the training process easier.

Below are some tips that can help make the house training experience easier to deal with for everyone involved.

1. When you get your new puppy, whether from a breeder, or a neighbor, ask and make sure they have already started some type of house training. For example, putting them outside every morning, after meals or naps to go potty and then praising them when they do a good job.

2. Buy an inside dog kennel and perhaps even a baby gate or two to help keep the new puppy confined when you are not watching them.

3. Always feed dry food, and if you prefer a brand different then what they are eating now, make the switch gradually, mixing the food over a period of time until they are completely eating and adjusted to the new food. Just switching foods will upset little tummies, even older ones, and can make for a sick and unhappy puppy or dog.

4. If you don't want it messed up, don't put a new puppy or pet in an area where you have carpet until fully house trained. This is a no brainer ~ tiled floor or hardwood floors are best.

5. Figure out a workable feeding schedule and stick to it, DO NOT get into the habit of leaving food out at all times. This encourages over eating and obesity and bad eating habits.

6. Always take out to go 'potty' immediately after eating in the place you want them to learn to go, make sure it is in the same area.

7. DO NOT play with the puppy until after the puppy goes 'potty'.

8. If the puppy doesn't go 'potty' within 10 minutes, bring inside and place in kennel for 10 minutes then take back out again. If for some reason they go 'potty' in the kennel, clean the mess promptly, and just be ready for the next time to go out potty.

9. When taking out to go 'potty' take them out of a leash to the place you want the puppy to go so that the puppy learns to do it under your control.

10. Realize that going 'potty' requires a schedule ~ first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and after every meal and nap.

11. Keep the area the puppy or dog goes potty in clean ~ pick up the poop everyday after they have taken care of business.

12. It's important to realize and know that failures in house training are HUMAN mistakes, not puppy and dog mistakes.

13. NEVER EVER punish for mistakes.

14. If you don't have the time or the patience for the rigorous schedule of house training, then perhaps now is not the right time to get a new puppy or dog. You can also take into consideration getting a dog from a rescue and adopting one that is already housebroken. However, you still need to be prepared to teach the new dog the 'potty rules' in your home, so time and pateince is still required. You can't just turn them loose and expect them to know what to do.

15. If a puppy reaches around 5 months or so, and is still having accidents inside, make sure there is not a physical or medical reason for this such as intestinal parasites, illness, or bladder infection that can cause the failure of recognizing the signal for when the puppy needs to go outside.

Really giving these tips serious consideration will help in preparing you for before you bring home your new puppy or dog. If you KNOW you are ready to accept that house training is a family activity, whether single or a parent with children in the household, then continue on to the next important topic in making sure your home is ready for your new family member...In The Beginning....HOW???

In The Beginning....WHO????

Who is going to take care of the new dog?? This is the first, and probably the most important, of all the topics of what you need to take into consideration before ever bringing a new dog home. If you are single and will be the sole person taking care of "Fluffy", then this question is already answered ~ the job falls squarely on your shoulders. However, in families with children, many parents make the mistake of purchasing or getting a new dog with the expectation or exclamation that a child will bear the brunt of the responsibility.

Although children can be responsible for a dog's needs to a certain extent, it is more important to remember that a dog's need for attention and care are constant...a child's attention to that responsibility is NOT.

If a parent is not comfortable with the fact that they are, from the beginning, ultimately responsible for overseeing all of "Fluffy's" care, then it would be best to stop right there and not get the dog. Also, never get a dog just because a child wants one or because you think it might teach them a lesson in responsibility. Again, in the end, the parent is ultimately responsible for ALL care the dog recieves ~ good AND bad.

A dog deserves to be treated as a member of a family, with everyone encouraged to participate in his or her care. If you KNOW you are ready to accept this responsibility whether single or a parent, then continue on to the next important topic in making sure your home is ready for your new family member...In The Beginning ~ What???

In The Beginning...Who, What, How & Where???

So, you really think you are ready for a four legged furry friend, do you? There are some very important things to take into consideration and to really think about before you ever bring a new dog home, whether it be a puppy you are thinking about purchasing, a rescue from a local shelter you are thinking about adopting, or even one a friend wants to give you for free.

The next few days I will be covering four topics vital to making sure your home is ready for your family member before you ever bring him or her home. Please feel free to comment or ask questions if you have any!

THE BOND

As I start this blog off, I think first and foremost it is important to establish the undeniable importance and the strength of the bond between a dog and their human 'parent'. From the moment you set eyes on each other, the start of a bond has been planted and must be encouraged and nurtured as it grows.

Your dog, without a doubt, will depend on you for everything ~ from food, to shelter, to love and yes, even discipline. Initially, trust must be earned and bounderies set for there to be not only a happy bond, but a healthy one as well.

In this blog, I will cover many topics, however, it is because of the bond you and your dog share that will make sharing them possible. I would love to hear your suggestions and thoughts for future topics, as well as your comments to the information I will provide.

Remember ~ the love of a four legged furry wonder is wonderfully unconditional and indescribable...but for them to be as lucky for you to love them just as much, I believe, to them is priceless.