Top 7 - Agression

Fido has decided he is the leader of the pack and not you...Fifi has started nipping and biting...what do you do???

We all love our dogs, there's no doubt about that, but sometimes love gets in the way of looking at our dogs' behavior honestly and objectively. When we fail to recognize a problem, or worse, refuse to believe there is a problem, we can actually make the problem worse.

People make excuses for their dogs for all kinds of reasons. Some people don't understand what normal canine behavior should be and don't recognize when their dog is behaving abnormally. Some do realize when things aren't right but are afraid to take steps to correct them because they're worried their dog might not love them as much as it did before. Others are secretly afraid of their dogs and believe, often rightly so, that their dog might bite them if they intervene. Some people love their dogs so much that they refuse to acknowledge that their dogs aren't perfect, much less mentally disturbed. A few go so far as to ignore the bad behavior to such an extent that the dog becomes a real danger to themselves and other people.

Most of us want our dogs to be be protective toward our families, but is behaving aggressively toward our guests the sort of protection we want? No, that's just being obnoxious! It indicates a dog that is either fearful and insecure or dominant and over-reactive. Neither is normal and both can be dangerous.

Can mistreatment by a previous owner cause behavior problems? Sure, but it doesn't mean the dog should be allowed to continue its bad behavior now that it's being treated properly. Blaming earlier abuse for a bad attitude is just an excuse for not teaching the dog how it's expected to act now.

Do dogs ever grow out of their behavior problems? Very seldom. As the dog gets bigger, so does the problem! Bad behavior that was considered cute or tolerable in a small puppy is usually intolerable or even dangerous in a fully grown dog.

A dog that bites or threatens to bite is not a safe dog, plain and simple. Whether the dog "means to" or not isn't the issue. The important thing in all these cases is: the dog is doing something it shouldn't and the behavior must be corrected. Unless the owner admits that there is a problem and gets help to solve it, things will only get worse and more people will get hurt.

Dogs that bite or threaten to bite are usually beyond the capabilities of the average group training class such as those commonly offered by kennel clubs and animal shelters. It's best to seek out the help of a professional trainer or behaviorist that can personally evaluate your dog and tailor a training program that meets your dog's individual needs. Most kennel clubs, training clubs, animal shelters, groomers and veterinarians can provide referrals to trainers experienced in behavior problems.

Top 7 - Barking or Whining

What a RACKET!!! Fido or Fifi, that's enough!!! How do you get Fido or Fifi to stop making noise??? The answer is...you DON'T.

Barking is actually a dog’s natural reaction to changes in his or her environment; he or she should be allowed to indulge themselves AS LONG AS they are being reasonable.

However, if your dog annoys you or the neighbors with his noise-making, there are some steps you can take to minimize the nuisance and pain in the behind. The solution could be as simple as a change of scenery for the dog or as complex as the developing and putting into action some type of behavior modification program.

Some dogs bark or whine at everything they see and hear, a bad habit that will cause major problems in an apartment complex or really tight fitted neighborhood. Some dogs will stop barking if they cannot hear or see the people they know are near. So, if Fido or Fifi is an in-the-house noisemaker, put her in the kitchen or laundry room with a crate or bed, away from windows, common walls, and hallways, and turn on a radio before leaving the house. And believe it or not, classical music stations usually work best - they have fewer disruptions by commercials with all kinds of noises that could trigger barking. Confine Fido or Fifi in the room with baby gates in the doorways, not by closing doors, so he or she does not "panic".

If your dog barks while you’re gone because he or she is outside and wants inside or if he or she is an outside dog and a habitual barker, a change of scene could work as well. You could bring them inside the house or build a run in the basement to keep them in an area without so many distractions to bark at. The radio, again, will help mask sounds and confinement to a small area may help him or her settle down.

If your outdoor dog has been banished from the house because he or she is destructive, you may find that they have outgrown their destructive stage. If not, or if you are afraid to find out, a crate or a basement kennel may be the answer.

Top 7 - Inappropriate Urination/Defecation

OH NO!!! What WAS that you just stepped in??? GROSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!

House training is a big item on the Top 7 Hate list - nobody likes dealing with a nasty, stinky mess. Appropriate house training begins the moment you bring Fido or Fifi home - here are some critical yet simple rules right off the bat to keep in mind and implement with your furry friend:

1. Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
2. Puppies have limited bladder control.
3. Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
4. All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
5. Dogs have to go potty when...
a. they wake up in the morning or after a nap
b. within 1/2 hour after eating
c. before they go to sleep

By adhering to these rules everyone should be happy, and life will be peaceful and content.

Breaking it down for adult dogs, simply modify the puppy schedule to train the unhouse trained adult dog that is having problems. Start from the beginning just like you would with a puppy, using a crate and putting them on a schedule. The good news is an older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods as long as you take them outside at the critical times - see a - c above. Until they are totally reliable, just take them out about every 3 to 4 hours in between the critical times.

Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really gotta go. Just like a puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.

HOWEVER...

There is something ELSE to keep in mind - your male puppy will begin to lift or 'hike' his leg roughly between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation of his sexual drive and his instinct to “mark” his territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, plus fighting and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house, particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!

Top 7 - Cost of Medical Care

Flat out - owning a dog costs money. A good and responsible owner will know this and I'm talking about above and beyond the cost of feeding and housing.

If you get a puppy, first and foremost if you get them from a reputable person, the puppy should have had it's initial first vaccinations out of a series of 4 - this should include a vet check and a complete series of worming. If not, you will have to be responsible for these things.

There is a lot you can do to help alleviate these costs - for example, you can take the puppy in for just the exam, and get wormer if necessary. If you know what you are doing you can purchase the vaccinations (both the distemper/parvo and bordetalla) and administer them yourself. This will save a LOT of money, but unfortunately most people aren't comfortable administering vaccinations so unless you know someone that is, be prepared for several initial vet visits from the start until all puppy shots are up to date and finished.

The initial timing and schedule for worming/vaccinations for a puppy are as scheduled:

2 weeks - 1st series of worming, with one a week for the next 7 weeks
6 weeks - 1st vet visit/1st D/P & Bordetella vaccination/fecal exam
9 weeks - 2nd vet visit/2nd D/P & Bordetella vaccination/follow up fecal if necessary
12 weeks - 3rd vet visit/3rd D/P vaccination
15 weeks - 4th vet visit/4th D/P & Rabies vaccination

Prices vary from vet to vet, but you can be sure that a full series such as the above will set you back roughly $200 - 300 - be prepared to pay these costs. As far as vaccinations go, you will be fine after this point to just get the yearly followups.

Next, it is imperative and important to spay or neuter your dog...sadly unwanted puppies are born everyday and we all need to do our part to help keep the pet population down. The average age of getting this done is 4 - 6 months of age for the puppy, before the first heat cycle for a female and before the males testicles totally descend. A pet can be spayed or neutered at anytime, but behaviourally speaking, most pets do better if they are spayed or neutered prior to reaching complete adulthood.

There are many community programs available to help with the cost of spaying and neutering - contact your local ASPCA - they will be more then happy to assist you in finding a low-cost local program if necessary. They would much rather help you do this then one day have to take in your dog and it's unwanted babies at a future date. Yes, it does cost to spay/neuter - but the cost is so much higher when you think of the future of the dogs brought into this world unwanted and unexpected.

Occasionally - accidents do happen. And Fifi or Fido may need that extra bit of care that can literally run into the thousands of dollars...what do you do? To this particular blog I'm going to give you a link to pet insurance called VPI Pet Insurance I have personally used and have had experience with - just like for people, there is also health insurance available for pets as well that most if not all vets accept. Be sure to check with your local veterinarian and read and go through all the insurance information to see which one fits your needs and your household best - but in a pinch I have seen first hand that these can LITERALLY be a lifesaver...dogs that were hurt and injured were able to receive care that the owner would not have been able to provide and afford otherwise and would have to have been euthanized.

Yes, the cost of medical care for dogs is definitely on the top 7 hate list - but it is manageable with careful thought and planning, especially if taken into consideration and prepared for before bringing a new dog home. Our little furry family members are worth it.