Sunday, March 29, 2009
Top 7 - Cost of Medical Care
If you get a puppy, first and foremost if you get them from a reputable person, the puppy should have had it's initial first vaccinations out of a series of 4 - this should include a vet check and a complete series of worming. If not, you will have to be responsible for these things.
There is a lot you can do to help alleviate these costs - for example, you can take the puppy in for just the exam, and get wormer if necessary. If you know what you are doing you can purchase the vaccinations (both the distemper/parvo and bordetalla) and administer them yourself. This will save a LOT of money, but unfortunately most people aren't comfortable administering vaccinations so unless you know someone that is, be prepared for several initial vet visits from the start until all puppy shots are up to date and finished.
The initial timing and schedule for worming/vaccinations for a puppy are as scheduled:
2 weeks - 1st series of worming, with one a week for the next 7 weeks
6 weeks - 1st vet visit/1st D/P & Bordetella vaccination/fecal exam
9 weeks - 2nd vet visit/2nd D/P & Bordetella vaccination/follow up fecal if necessary
12 weeks - 3rd vet visit/3rd D/P vaccination
15 weeks - 4th vet visit/4th D/P & Rabies vaccination
Prices vary from vet to vet, but you can be sure that a full series such as the above will set you back roughly $200 - 300 - be prepared to pay these costs. As far as vaccinations go, you will be fine after this point to just get the yearly followups.
Next, it is imperative and important to spay or neuter your dog...sadly unwanted puppies are born everyday and we all need to do our part to help keep the pet population down. The average age of getting this done is 4 - 6 months of age for the puppy, before the first heat cycle for a female and before the males testicles totally descend. A pet can be spayed or neutered at anytime, but behaviourally speaking, most pets do better if they are spayed or neutered prior to reaching complete adulthood.
There are many community programs available to help with the cost of spaying and neutering - contact your local ASPCA - they will be more then happy to assist you in finding a low-cost local program if necessary. They would much rather help you do this then one day have to take in your dog and it's unwanted babies at a future date. Yes, it does cost to spay/neuter - but the cost is so much higher when you think of the future of the dogs brought into this world unwanted and unexpected.
Occasionally - accidents do happen. And Fifi or Fido may need that extra bit of care that can literally run into the thousands of dollars...what do you do? To this particular blog I'm going to give you a link to pet insurance called VPI Pet Insurance I have personally used and have had experience with - just like for people, there is also health insurance available for pets as well that most if not all vets accept. Be sure to check with your local veterinarian and read and go through all the insurance information to see which one fits your needs and your household best - but in a pinch I have seen first hand that these can LITERALLY be a lifesaver...dogs that were hurt and injured were able to receive care that the owner would not have been able to provide and afford otherwise and would have to have been euthanized.
Yes, the cost of medical care for dogs is definitely on the top 7 hate list - but it is manageable with careful thought and planning, especially if taken into consideration and prepared for before bringing a new dog home. Our little furry family members are worth it.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Top 7 - Pet Hair
Pet hair all over your clothes, all over your home, everywhere actually, can be quite annoying. Is there anything you can do to prevent this from happening?
To put it very simply, all dogs have three types of hair: a soft downy undercoat that is especially abundant in northern breeds but also exists in breeds that were developed in cool or cold climates; stiffer and often longer guard hairs that form a protective layer to protect undercoat and skin from harsh weather and cold water; and whiskers, those specialized hairs that grow in clumps on the face.
All dog hair grows in cycles. When it reaches a certain length determined by the individual dog's genetic makeup, it stops growing, then dies. That's when shedding begins. Dogs that require regular 'hair cuts' or a full grooming such as poodles, their hair never stops growing. That is one reason why they are considered a nonshedding breed, or hypoallergenic breed. Another reason is because they produce a lot less 'pet dander' which are dead skin cells sloughed off by the shedding hair.
A dog may be slightly uncomfortable during shedding as the dead hairs and the dead skin cells can cause the skin to itch. Owners can help relieve that slight discomfort by brushing the coat which will also help keep down the amount of hair shed throughout the home.
Shedding appears to be connected to how the seasons run, but it is actually goes by how long the days run. Dogs that live outside usually shed heavily as days lengthen into spring, but those that live mostly indoors often seem to shed at least a bit all year long. Loss of the winter undercoat helps the dog stay cooler in warm, humid weather, a necessity for an animal whose only sweat glands are in the pads of his paws. Female dogs often drop their coats after a heat cycle or after whelping and most dogs will also shed after undergoing anesthesia.
It is important to research the different breeds and their coats, and decide which kind of breed of dog will work for you and your home and the coat your dog will have before you bring him or her home. Also check into what you are looking at as far as upkeep with grooming, not only to help them stay clean and happy and healthy, but also to keep you from getting frustrated and aggravated.
Also, a little known fact about dogs, but something to stop and think about and to take into serious consideration - no matter what color or type coat your dog may have, the condition of the dog's hair mirrors the general state of the dog's health. Thyroid problems, insufficient dietary fats, poor nutrition, hormone imbalances, seborrhea, ringworm, pore infections, hot spots, inhalant allergies, and external parasites can directly or indirectly affect hair health and growth.
Coat condition is, therefore, as important to monitor as appetite, behavior, and temperature when assessing your dog's well-being. A dull, dry, brittle, or greasy coat is a clue to the internal workings of every dog's system. Keep an eye on it - remember, they too, are important in the family and deserve to have the best of care.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Top 7 - Having to Board / Get a Pet Sitter When Traveling
Many dog owners dread the thought of having to find a boarding kennel or pet sitter for their dog, for many reasons. As a former co-owner in a boarding/grooming shop, I have had first hand experience in knowing what to expect, and the pitfalls that can happen in a boarding kennel. Many owners are very particular about where and who takes care of their pet - and they should be, since they too, are members are the family. To make choosing a kennel less stressful and to give you more of an idea of what to look for and think about before choosing one, below are some suggestions for you to take into consideration whether looking for a kennel for vacation or in an emergency.
1. Is it clean? What is the first thing you smell when you walk into a boarding kennel? When you walk into a boarding kennel the first thing you should smell is CLEAN, not a 'dog' smell. If a kennel properly cleans and maintains it's kennels as it should, there should be no offensive odor of any kind for you to smell. Do not be afraid to ask how and with what cleaners kennels are cleaned with (I used a bleach/water with a mild detergent for a cleaning mix and cavicide for disinfection) and how often they are cleaned. A good kennel will keep kennels clean, cleaning them a minimum of twice daily for those that are occupied, and moving ALL kennels to get behind and under them at LEAST weekly to ensure proper cleanliness. Also inquire and make sure that all cleaning agents are properly stored and kept put up and away from pets, and that they do not have any way or opportunity to get to them to ingest them. This is critical - you'll see why in a bit.
2. Do they use linens/towels? Be sure to ask if clean linens/towels are available to make kennels more comfortable for visiting pets, and what they are washed with. All linens/towels should be washed in hot water and not just in a mild detergent, but also bleach as well to keep them clean and safe for the next visitor's use. Linens/towels should be changed a minimum of twice daily, when the kennels are cleaned. Inquire if a washing machine and dryer are available on the premises, this is a definite plus but be sure to inquire about the washing schedule (in other words, making sure linens/towels are changed at least twice daily). If there isn't a washing machine and dryer on the premises it would be safer to assume laundry probably isn't done often enough or as it should be and you might want to look somewhere else. Many good kennels will allow you to bring your own linens/towels to make your pet more comfortable. Make sure all items are labeled properly, and be sure what you send isn't something that you don't mind getting thoroughly cleaned and bleached.
3. What is the feeding schedule? Most kennels will feed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon - if your dog goes on a different schedule, be sure to notify the kennel. A good kennel will not complain but comply with your wishes. Many owners will bring their own food for their dog, make sure it is properly labeled, and be sure to bring enough to last for the length of time you will be gone. If you do not bring your own food and will be letting them feed the kennel 'special' be sure to inquire what dog food they feed to ensure it is nutritionally balanced and of good quality.
4. What bowls do they use for food and water? Plastic food and water bowls are a no-no in a kennel - make sure the bowls that are used are either stainless steel or heavy crock ware. These are much better and easier to keep sanitized and are safer for your pet. Inquire with what and how often they are cleaned. A water bowl should always be present, but should be removed and cleaned and and a new one placed and filled during both feeding times and checked often to make sure it never goes empty. Food bowls should be washed and cleaned twice daily and removed once food has been consumed. A mild dish detergent and bleach should be used to clean the dishes, and then after rinsing to be let to soak for about 10 minutes in water with bleach in it, then air dried. Inquire and make sure that an adequate amount of bowls are available so that when rotating/washing, Fido or Fifi won't have to wait until the bowls are clean. If bringing your own bowls, make sure it is properly labeled and expect it to be cleaned with the same thoroughness, but that a water bowl is present and supplied besides yours at all times to ensure Fido/Fifi has water available while waiting for their personal bowls to be cleaned and dried.
5. What is the potty/walking schedule and WHERE will they be going? Make SURE a proper sized outside enclosure is available for your pet to stretch his or her legs, and to go potty. Also inquire if they will be watched or if they are left alone in the outside enclosure, as they should be monitored at all times. Also, make sure they have a good area to take out those dogs that need to be walked, and that leashes are provided. You can provide your own leash - make sure they are properly labeled. Be sure you let them know if your dog will be ok to be taken to an outside enclosure to go potty and run free a bit or if they will need to be walked on a leash. Dogs should be walked/taken out a MINIMUM of twice a day - and if yours has a set schedule be sure to inform the kennel so that they can accommodate as necessary.
NOTE: From personal experience I have learned that it is BEST to have two people working and available for cleaning/feeding/walking. At a former kennel I worked for before owning my own, dogs were led into an outside 12x10x6 covered kennel with a concrete floor - the location was great, it was safely enclosed and big enough to stretch out in, and cleaned up of poop and rinsed off of urine before the next dog was let to go potty. They would go out once in the morning, at noon, and early evening. It seemed perfect, and dogs were taken out and the time used for them to 'take care of business' was used to clean their kennels, feed, etc. as needed. I have learned the hard way this should be a two person job, and someone should always be watching while the other is cleaning. On the day the OWNER (my boss) of the kennel had kennel duty, she left a spray bottle with a cleaning agent hanging at the very top of the kennel to be used to spray and then quickly rinse off the floor between dogs. We all always did this, it just made things easier and didn't think anything about it since it was so high up. On that particular day, a very feisty and inquisitive Dalmatian knocked the spray bottle down while she was inside cleaning and chewed it open, ingesting a good bit of the disinfectant. She spent a good deal of the rest of the morning/afternoon at the vet with a VERY sick dog (he'd gone into seizures and foaming at the mouth and having trouble breathing...it was horrifying), and had to call the owners and notify them about what had happened.
6. What other services do they offer? If your pet takes medication, make sure that the kennel will take responsibility of making sure your pet gets their proper dosage at the proper time. All medications should be properly labeled and stored in a safe place. A good kennel will have individual shelves/cubbies that can be labeled to put each visiting dogs personal items and supplies in. Also, many kennels offer additional grooming or bathing services - inquire which are available, and you may be able to get your dog a bath or a good grooming before picking them up and taking them home.
7. What is their registration process? If they just tell you to bring them on in - DON'T! Any kennel worth their weight in salt will request and require a vaccination record from the owner's veterinarian. They would make sure all vaccinations are current and up to date, and require at minimum a rabies vaccination, the distemper/parvo vaccination and the kennel cough vaccination before letting any dog through their door. Puppies younger then 16 weeks without a rabies vaccination and a full series of puppy vaccinations should not be boarded. If a kennel will allow it, then a certification letter from a vet stating they have had an adequate amount of 'puppy' shots, that they are healthy as of the vet visit and then ONLY at the owner's discretion knowing that their could be risks should it then be allowed. A very thorough information and contact sheet should be filled out and updated with each stay and kept on file with all of the owner's and the owner's veterinarian's pertinent information, as well as any and all other information that is needed to know such as any allergies, type of food eaten, medications taken, unique schedule or any other special needs. An index card or kennel card should be filled out at the time of drop off or prepared before hand with the dog's name, owner's name and emergency contact number and any special needs written on it and placed on the kennel door at the time of drop off to insure that the proper dog, it's identity and it's needs are immediately known.
8. How much does it cost? This is probably the most touchy subject that owner's are worried about, but the one that has the least to do with their pets health and safety. Prices vary from kennel to kennel, with daily rates and weekly rates. Inquire as to what the rates are, if they differ for different size dogs, and what all is included. Be prepared - boarding in a kennel can be very expensive, but it is worth knowing your pet is healthy, happy and safe if all of the above things I have covered are in good order.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Top 7 Things Dog Owners Hate
2. Pet Hair
3. Cost of Medical Care
4. Inappropriate Urination/Defecation
5. Barking or Whining
6. Aggression
7. Pet Odors
Whew - those seven things, when really thought about, seem like they would almost turn-off any new potential pet owner, don't they?
Actually, these things may be annoying, and they may be something ALL pet owners need to deal with at some time or another, but all in all they can be dealt with in a way that doesn't turn you or your home upside down and inside out.
This next series will address these, one by one, in more depth and detail (I've briefly covered some of these topics before) to help you deal with these things that ALL pet owner's hate to deal with. If you have any ideas or additional information or experiences you would like to share while covering these topics - please do! I look forward to hearing from you!
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...BEHAVIOUR AND ATTITUDE (BARKING)
Bet you didn't know it but...some dogs bark. A lot. Some dogs such as terriers and hounds use their voices to let others know about their progress in chasing prey animals. Then there are shelties and collies that will bark to tell the sheep to get back into the barn. Guard dogs will bark to alert their families to potential intruders.
In general, barking dogs do not endear their owners to their neighbors in apartments, condominiums, and neighborhoods. Too much barking can lead to noise laws or even pet limit laws. This is why owners of barking dogs, or dogs that like to bark must be extra vigilant in preventing their pets from becoming a neighborhood pain in the rear.
Many dogs will bark if they are bored or antsy, so owners should make sure they give their doggy friend enough time for training, walking, and play time, and should properly keep them confined if and when they are unable to keep them from disturbing the neighbors. (There are some special collars available to help cease and deter barking in dogs and some training methods that can help in some cases, but if potential owners take the noise factor into consideration, problems are more likely to be minimized.)
Barking is to dogs what talking is to us - can you imagine never being able to speak your piece? Didn't think so - wanting to completely eliminate all barking isn't really necessary, after all, they need time to say what they need to say too - but it is important to know and realize that certain breeds are more prone to having a more 'outspoken' barking 'behaviour' and may get an 'attitude' when you try to quieten them down then others.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...TEMPERAMENT
There are a gazillion words to describe the different temperaments of different breeds - the tendency to be tough, loyal, aloof, dominant, aggressive to other animals, challenging, yappy, independent, sweet and gentle, just to name a few. As far as being breed specific describing temperament, however, with proper training, encouragment and guidance the temperament of the dog YOU want will be how YOU want it to be.
Just know you will need to research the basic common and general known temperament that is common in the breed you are interested in, and then you will be able to organize and be prepared to maintain the training required to get the temperament YOU expect from the dog.
Yes, some dogs are born with more tendencies towards being more aggressive or more mellow then others - but how you teach, train and love them will make all the difference. Having a dog with the kind of temperament that you encourage and nurture will make for a happy and fullfilling relationship between the dog and your family.
