Any Breed Will Do - What Is A Breed?

What is a breed?

An actual 'breed' of dog doesn't just happen, it is carefully developed over at least seven generations to fix the desired characteristics. Especially when breeding purebred dogs, the puppies must be able to be identified as a member of the breed when compared to the standard and to other adults. In other words, each litter of puppies should resemble its parents, grandparents, great grandparents and so on.

It is important to know and realize that just by sight you can't necessarily prove, even with registration papers, that a dog is purebred. There are shady breeders, and worse even careless ones, that can and will sell crossbreeds of similar looking dogs as purebred when they aren't. Some examples this can happen with are say crosses between Lhasa Apsos and Shih Tzus, any of the small terriers, Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes, and quite a few others. Believe it or not, there are genetic tests now available to identify more than three dozen breeds, so really serious buyers have something to fall back on if suspicious...unfortunately it's not cheap, the run about $80 for a test.

The advantage of owning a purebred dog is that the animal's appearance and character are pretty well set by generations of careful selection for particular traits. Puppy buyers can then more easily pick and choose the dog that will fit into their lifestyle and circumstances - active families can opt for energetic dogs; families with children can choose gentle dogs; people who live in apartments can select quieter dogs that need less exercise, etc.

Any Breed Will Do - Oh Really?

So you've decided you want a dog - anything will do as long as it's warm, soft and fuzzy, right?

There are many things to take into consideration before getting a dog, and so far we've covered a good many topics concerning this - however, it pays in the long run to do thorough research before getting your pooch. That's why I'm going as in depth as I can think covering this before moving on to other topics.

Will any breed do? The answer to this question is simply - NO. Just because they look cute or seem to be fun is no justification for adding a new member into your household that could possible turn it upside down due to bad planning. Granted, situations can occur that a furry fuzzball can come into your life quite unexpectedly. You may not always be prepared - but being well informed will definitely help in what to expect and what to do.

In this next series of topics we are going to cover several items:

1. What is a breed?
2. Choosing a breed
3. Dog Source: private breeders
3. Finding a responsible breeder
4. How much should they really cost?
5. Dog Source: shelters
6. Dog Source: rescues for pure breeds
7. Dog Source: preowned by family/friends
8. Dog Source: just a stray
9. Dog Source: pet stores
10. Dog Source: the classifieds

Each of these topics will include as much information and also links with information as I can find - as I expand this blog and cover more topics I hope with your comments and input it can be the best it can be.

Top 7 - Pet Odors

EWWWW!!!! What IS that smell???? Do people know you have a dog even before they even see him?

Many times this is worse with houses that have carpet, then houses with hardwood flooring. There are some things you can do to keep the odor under control and to eliminate it before it can become a problem, and even if it IS a problem.

1. Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. You might want to use a black-light, which you can purchase at a home supply store. A black-light will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all of the lights in the room; use the black-light to identify soiled areas and lightly outline the areas with chalk.

2. Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors. There are many products you can use to help clean, but it's important to find a cleaner that is enzymatic and will break down the old urine that has carried itself deep into your carpet and furniture.

3. Rule out medical causes for the behavior by visiting your veterinarian

4. Figure out why your pet is urinating and/or defecating in inappropriate areas.

5. Re-train your pet by make the "accident zone" unattractive and/or unavailable to your pet and the appropriate "bathroom" area attractive. Then, show your pet the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement techniques.

To be successful, you will need to follow all of these steps. If you fail to completely clean the area, your re-training efforts will be useless. As long as your dog can smell where he's gone before, he'll continue to return to the "accident zone." Even if you can't smell traces of urine, your dog can.

I'm also going to include some instructions for cleaning these stains - this is a direct written excerpt from the Humane Society to help pet owners eliminate the problem as efficiently and thoroughly as possible.

Instructions from The Humane Society of the United States to Eliminate Pet Odors/Stains:

To Clean Washable Items

• Machine wash as usual, adding a one-pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. It's best to air dry these items if possible.

• If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner (available at pet supply stores) that breaks down pet-waste odors. Be sure to follow the directions carefully.
• If your pet urinates or defecates on the sheets or blankets on a bed, then cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth when you begin the re-training period. It's machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery

For "new" stains (those that are still wet):

• Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the easier it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. If possible, put newspaper under the soiled area as well. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.
• If possible, put the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel in the area where it belongs—your cat's litter box or your dog's designated outdoor "bathroom area." This will help remind your pet that eliminating isn't a "bad" behavior as long as it's done in the right place.
• Rinse the "accident zone" thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a wet vac.

For stains that have already set:

• To remove all traces of heavy stains in carpeting, consider renting an extractor or wet vac from a local hardware store. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Don't use any chemicals with these machines; they work much more effectively with plain water.
• Once the area is really clean, use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Be sure to read and follow the cleaner's directions for use, including testing the cleaner on a small, hidden portion of fabric first to be sure it doesn't stain.
• If the area still looks stained after it's completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
• Avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery. The heat will permanently set the stain and the odor by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers.
• Avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with strong odors such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pet's perspective, these don't effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor and may actually encourage your pet to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.
• If you've previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won't be effective until you've rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven't used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its "energy" on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.
• If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult. In some cases, you may need to take the drastic step of removing and replacing that portion of the carpet and padding.

To Clean Floors and Walls

If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard, or floor is discolored, the varnish or paint has reacted to the acid in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint. If you do so, make sure the new product is safe for pets. Employees at your local hardware or home improvement store can help you identify and match your needs with appropriate removers and replacements. Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers may respond favorably to enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully before using these products and test them in an invisible area.

Top 7 - Agression

Fido has decided he is the leader of the pack and not you...Fifi has started nipping and biting...what do you do???

We all love our dogs, there's no doubt about that, but sometimes love gets in the way of looking at our dogs' behavior honestly and objectively. When we fail to recognize a problem, or worse, refuse to believe there is a problem, we can actually make the problem worse.

People make excuses for their dogs for all kinds of reasons. Some people don't understand what normal canine behavior should be and don't recognize when their dog is behaving abnormally. Some do realize when things aren't right but are afraid to take steps to correct them because they're worried their dog might not love them as much as it did before. Others are secretly afraid of their dogs and believe, often rightly so, that their dog might bite them if they intervene. Some people love their dogs so much that they refuse to acknowledge that their dogs aren't perfect, much less mentally disturbed. A few go so far as to ignore the bad behavior to such an extent that the dog becomes a real danger to themselves and other people.

Most of us want our dogs to be be protective toward our families, but is behaving aggressively toward our guests the sort of protection we want? No, that's just being obnoxious! It indicates a dog that is either fearful and insecure or dominant and over-reactive. Neither is normal and both can be dangerous.

Can mistreatment by a previous owner cause behavior problems? Sure, but it doesn't mean the dog should be allowed to continue its bad behavior now that it's being treated properly. Blaming earlier abuse for a bad attitude is just an excuse for not teaching the dog how it's expected to act now.

Do dogs ever grow out of their behavior problems? Very seldom. As the dog gets bigger, so does the problem! Bad behavior that was considered cute or tolerable in a small puppy is usually intolerable or even dangerous in a fully grown dog.

A dog that bites or threatens to bite is not a safe dog, plain and simple. Whether the dog "means to" or not isn't the issue. The important thing in all these cases is: the dog is doing something it shouldn't and the behavior must be corrected. Unless the owner admits that there is a problem and gets help to solve it, things will only get worse and more people will get hurt.

Dogs that bite or threaten to bite are usually beyond the capabilities of the average group training class such as those commonly offered by kennel clubs and animal shelters. It's best to seek out the help of a professional trainer or behaviorist that can personally evaluate your dog and tailor a training program that meets your dog's individual needs. Most kennel clubs, training clubs, animal shelters, groomers and veterinarians can provide referrals to trainers experienced in behavior problems.

Top 7 - Barking or Whining

What a RACKET!!! Fido or Fifi, that's enough!!! How do you get Fido or Fifi to stop making noise??? The answer is...you DON'T.

Barking is actually a dog’s natural reaction to changes in his or her environment; he or she should be allowed to indulge themselves AS LONG AS they are being reasonable.

However, if your dog annoys you or the neighbors with his noise-making, there are some steps you can take to minimize the nuisance and pain in the behind. The solution could be as simple as a change of scenery for the dog or as complex as the developing and putting into action some type of behavior modification program.

Some dogs bark or whine at everything they see and hear, a bad habit that will cause major problems in an apartment complex or really tight fitted neighborhood. Some dogs will stop barking if they cannot hear or see the people they know are near. So, if Fido or Fifi is an in-the-house noisemaker, put her in the kitchen or laundry room with a crate or bed, away from windows, common walls, and hallways, and turn on a radio before leaving the house. And believe it or not, classical music stations usually work best - they have fewer disruptions by commercials with all kinds of noises that could trigger barking. Confine Fido or Fifi in the room with baby gates in the doorways, not by closing doors, so he or she does not "panic".

If your dog barks while you’re gone because he or she is outside and wants inside or if he or she is an outside dog and a habitual barker, a change of scene could work as well. You could bring them inside the house or build a run in the basement to keep them in an area without so many distractions to bark at. The radio, again, will help mask sounds and confinement to a small area may help him or her settle down.

If your outdoor dog has been banished from the house because he or she is destructive, you may find that they have outgrown their destructive stage. If not, or if you are afraid to find out, a crate or a basement kennel may be the answer.

Top 7 - Inappropriate Urination/Defecation

OH NO!!! What WAS that you just stepped in??? GROSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!

House training is a big item on the Top 7 Hate list - nobody likes dealing with a nasty, stinky mess. Appropriate house training begins the moment you bring Fido or Fifi home - here are some critical yet simple rules right off the bat to keep in mind and implement with your furry friend:

1. Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
2. Puppies have limited bladder control.
3. Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
4. All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
5. Dogs have to go potty when...
a. they wake up in the morning or after a nap
b. within 1/2 hour after eating
c. before they go to sleep

By adhering to these rules everyone should be happy, and life will be peaceful and content.

Breaking it down for adult dogs, simply modify the puppy schedule to train the unhouse trained adult dog that is having problems. Start from the beginning just like you would with a puppy, using a crate and putting them on a schedule. The good news is an older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods as long as you take them outside at the critical times - see a - c above. Until they are totally reliable, just take them out about every 3 to 4 hours in between the critical times.

Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really gotta go. Just like a puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.

HOWEVER...

There is something ELSE to keep in mind - your male puppy will begin to lift or 'hike' his leg roughly between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation of his sexual drive and his instinct to “mark” his territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, plus fighting and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house, particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!